Can you remember some of your first jobs? When I was a teenager, my summer job searches always seemed to lead me to ice cream shops. Maybe it was my love of mint chocolate chip that did the leading, but there always seemed to be “Help Wanted” signs in the windows.
My first gig was at a restaurant-slash-ice-cream-shop run by owners of a local dairy farm. They served full dinners, but it was their desserts that really drew in the crowds. There was homemade ice cream (but you knew that), and there was pie baked fresh each morning by the dairy farm’s matriarch herself. Granted, this woman’s cherry custard was to die for, but even so, she was over-the-top when it came to regulating the cutting of her pies. Each slice had to be perfect. No crust could crumble. There were only a select few who were allowed to slice, and I was not among them.
No offense taken. I was free to scoop the ice cream (or swirl, in the case of the soft-serve stuff) as I wanted. Well, within reason. A “small” had to be served in a small-sized cup, and a “single dip” had to be just one dip. I stuck to the official one dip (on top) rule, but I also regularly exercised my right to backfill each cone with a bit of ice cream before perching that single dip on top. Hey, I had sound reasoning: That little bit in the cone gave the scoop something to stick to, so fewer kids wound up with their ice cream toppling onto the tile floor.
I also developed a knack for scraping the ice cream from the edge of the tub toward the center, going around and around in a flower pattern. The result was ginormous—far larger than I could have made by taking a single swipe through the tub. (But it was still one dip, technically.) The payoff came when I handed that gift of ice cream over to the waiting customer. Wide smiles and eyes, sometimes even a “whoa!” I felt like Robin Hood, disguised in a frilled green polyester apron. It was a good job, and I kept it until I went away to college.
During winter break, it was back to ice cream. I got a job at an ice-cream joint at the mall this time. It was part of a nationwide chain and serving ice cream there was serious business—standardized menus, outfits, training, and serving sizes. In fact, we were instructed to weigh each scoop (in full view of the customer). The theory: No customer would feel slighted. But, actually, it just made for a longer wait time. We had to scurry back and forth between freezer and scale—adding a little or, too often, removing a little. (And who wants to see their cone made smaller?!)
I really tried to learn to eyeball the serving sizes perfectly. But I could never get it quite right. So I decided I’d try to make each scoop a bit smaller than I thought it “should be” so that at least I could add to it instead of take away. The best moments of the day came when the manager was in his office—all of us behind the counter would bypass the scale entirely. We didn’t even eyeball the serving sizes much. We just scooped and served as quickly as possible. There were no long lines. No long waits. And no long faces of children watching a twentysomething in a brown apron downsize their medium-sized cone to regulation weight.
In the end, the mall store—and the whole chain—shut down. But that mom-and-pop dairy joint is still in full swing. In fact, they remodeled the interior and added a huge deck. My theory is that their success isn’t just because their ice cream is a bit better than that chain’s, but because they know that the best things in life just can’t be measured on a scale. (Imagine that!)
Today, Laura Quaglio only scoops ice cream for private parties—namely her husband and two kids, ages 12 and 9—though she still enjoys showing off her soft-serve swirling skills at the local all-you-can-eat buffet. She also makes frequent summertime stops at her first job site to savor fond memories…and a big scoop of homemade vanilla peanut butter ice cream on a sugar cone.







When possible, I try to patronize the mom and pop places. There's something about seeing the owners working there and their appreciation for your business. Same goes for farmers markets.


